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]]>I watch the ladies toil away in the organic garden, they stand and walk with a stately aura among themselves. The lilt in their voice when they speak to each other is of a gentle calmness. Their presence in the garden makes them almost a part of it. It is I who is the stranger in their midst. Their workplace is tendered with loving care. Its been over a year that I have seen the garden grow. The ground tilled to form the narrow gullies amongst the plots for the water to flow through. A tiny pile of mud pulled back or forth with a spade to control the water to each tiny area of the garden.
The seasons from the bitter cold to the falling rain and through the intense heat, through it all the garden awakens to a new dawn. A day that’s seen the flowers bloom and the butterflies and bees given free reign. The flitter about from the beautiful jezebel to the damsel fly. The dragonflies come through their migrational path on their way from Africa, several generations later. One smiles at the thought that this beautiful garden is one of many that’s a pit stop for them all on their long journeys.
Whilst a grey hornbill nonchalantly hops about trying to grab a tomato off the vine and gulp it down whole. To the black hooded oriole searching for bugs and the sunbirds hovering gently over the flowers and the whole natural world of pollination is happening there is a mesmerising continuous chirping of the birds happening. Whiles someone said that man is natures worst enemy, there are the chosen few who knowingly or unknowingly toil away to make it a beautiful place.
My travels have been many and never have I felt so much at peace as here in this temporary office at the organic farm at Kings Lodge in Bandhavgarh. And as I sit watch them work through the corner of my eye and their giggles of wonder at my incessant attempts to photograph the many birds and insects on the property it forces me to wonder about their lives and their journeys to make the jungle our home.
These two ladies in particular tell the story of many of the women in these parts or in many of the farming world. The chores of the house have to be done, the pujas done, the cooking of the meal and then they show up at the farms or the garden. The toiling begins and the weather plays no good a friend to them. The dangers that lurk in the undergrowth for their tired minds and bodies are at times not paying attention to the snake searching for the many frogs in the monsoons or unsuspecting birds amongst the flowers or in the paddy fields.
Clad in green or earthy colours they are a simple folk who do not hesitate to show you their world and with amusement while you get your hands dirty learning to pull fully grown radish from the ground. Their simple lives are a lesson in many ways. They give in a way most probably would not understand. I admire their resilience and ponder about those that have and do nothing, thinking that the world is theirs for the asking.
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When one is travelling to a place like Italy, with good friends and better food, the opportunity of sampling great wines, makes the trip truly unforgettable! If I thought I was lucky to have rediscovered Prosecco, nothing had prepared me for the wonder that was Grappa. A pomace brandy fondly called “firewater” by Italians, Grappa is again a gift from the Veneto region of Italy. A brilliant culinary example of recycling leftovers, Grappa is made with from the pomace (pressed skins and seeds of grapes) collected after the wine-making process. When all the juice has been squeezed out from the grapes to make wine, the resultant pomace is distilled either in a baine marie (double boiler) or using steam distillation to get Grappa. Known to be around since the Middle Ages, this beverage has come a long way from being a pheasants’ or poor man’s drink to the present day refined classy version.
I went to the Distilleria Bottega and met up with Alessandro Bottega a third generation Grappa producer. Alessandro explained that the pheasants’ drink was known so due to it’s crude flavour resulting from the use of a mixed grape pomace. In the 1920s, Alessandro’s grandfather Domenico, then an apprentice, got together with the master distillers of Conegliano and developed the first single grape Grappa. Soon after, he set up his own distillery. However, like any other great discovery, there are many takers to the claim of developing the first single grape Grappa.
Though not all of them lie. In the 1970s, the first premier quality single varietal Grappa was produced at the Nonino Distillery (which has been functional since 1897) using Picolit grapes. Soon other estates like Poli, Francoli, Bruneli and Barolo followed suit and single vintage Grappas made from Barolo, amarone, moscato and chardonnay varieties made an entry into the market. This development brought about a drastic increase in the price of Grappa, taking it up by almost ten times. In the 1980s, the Bottega family, took Grappa several notches higher by promoting it from being a connoisseurs’ favourite in the gastronomic sense to a collectors’ item in the artistic sense. In 1985, a bottle made of Murano blown glass was used to bottle Grappa. This Grappa was also double distilled and was christened Grappa Alexander.
The journey of the beverage is definitely interesting but so is the beverage itself. Christened firewater due to it’s alcohol content (40 – 65%) it provides tremendous warmth to the body, explaining why pheasants preferred it despite the rough flavour. Grappa is traditionally drunk young, however, aged versions are also now available. The flavour is quite strong owing to its heavy fruity fragrance, which in the case of aged Grappa is further enhanced as the liquid takes on the colour and flavour of the barrels. I happened to sample a Grappa aged in a cherry barrel in Milan and loved it! Perhaps another reason for the term firewater may be that Grappa originates in the town of Bassano del Grappa (hence the name) which has volcanic soil. And for me, it was even more interesting because it was yet another proof that Italians treat their wines like their own children.
Just like Prosecco, Grappa also enjoys certain distinctions to protect the reputation of the beverage. For one, it must be produced in Italy to be called Grappa at all (this probably stems from the fact that North America also started producing Grappa resulting in a sharp fall of demand of the original). Secondly, to keep the quality intact, the European Union has decreed that the distillation must only be done on solid pomace – without any addition of water or even grape juice which will dilute flavour. Traditionally, Grappa is enjoyed with coffee, either as a digestive (after dinner drink) or combined with espresso as caffe corretto (“corrected coffee”). However, it lends itself very well to several foods and in cooking too. Pairing Grappa with food is a tad tricky owing to the fact that one can’t really generalize its flavour – it all depends on the grape varietal and the cask (if aged). Nevertheless, one can safely say that other than the obvious coffee, cheese and chocolate, Grappa goes well with nut-based sauces and soups, pates, sausages, a variety of fish and roast poultry as well as fruit-based desserts.
When cooked with vegetables like fennel bulb and white asparagus (which also comes from Bassano del Grappa!) it creates a surprising refreshing flavour. As a lifestyle drink Grappa is upmarket all the way. And after having heard it’s history and journey, what more can one ask, but to drink sensibly.
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What un-manicured wrist doth a story tell, fingers gnarled and ancient as it moulds a piece of clay. From earth to earth I must return never knowing the magic of the clay. The potter stands tall above his spinning wheel, a wheel so old it tells a story of its own. Made from the local wood its wrapped in cloth and seasoned with hair and clay. The wheel is a testament of time, an art and craft handed down from father to son. A patient skill and one that takes you to a momentary rush of youth. To mould the clay and shape it and give it form and life. With grubby hands and a few sprinkles of water, the pressure of ones fingers and the a tiny brass wheel gives it a design of its own.
And so like the potter who creates magic, food and culinary trends are very often are started off by chefs. As chefs it is a responsibility to not only deliver good and safe food to clients and customers but also come out in the open and talk about safe food, safe food practices and the environment.
Today we are seeing the effects of neglect, mercury and plastic in almost everything that comes out of the sea. Even the very salt from the sea has been affected. The lack of change in farming practices has denuded the earth. What we think of as organic isn’t really organic. The pesticide levels have resulted in diseases like diabesity, Alzheimer’s and dementia to name a few. The very pots and pans of aluminium and non stick pans are also a result of many changes in our system.
Our ancestors had it right from using copper vessels and iron vessels to cook in, it was safe. Modern times has changed the very nature of how we cook and what we cook in. in same areas its best going back to our old ways of earthenware, iron, copper vessels for cooking. The flavours are richer and stronger and our systems absorb these minerals.
The changes of the eco-system and of our forests are being changed with the want of fossil fuels. Where will wildlife go and what changes will it bring to the farming world. The over population of herbivores will ruin crops and the natural order of hierarchy in the wild will be broken with the disappearance of the top predator. The disappearance of bees shall affect pollination and this shall in turn affect the creation of fruit and vegetables as we know it.
There is a change coming in what we eat and drink. Should it be full of chemicals and pesticides is the question. We as humans and chefs need to stand up together and question what we are serving to people. We need to question the farmer and also help the farmer. Chefs are turning farmers in their hotels, growing food and vegetables, urban farming is on the rise. Aquaphonics and hydroponics is taking over natural farming methods and creating a sustainable living. The change is real in todays scenario, and its nice to see a younger generation adapting to it. The return to nature is very real and we need to embrace it.
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